Corn snake

Corn snake

(Pantherophis guttatus)

Corn Snakes are by far the most popular pet snake in the UK. The species ranges across much of Central and Eastern North America, extending into North-Eastern Mexico. They prefer relatively open habitat such as forest openings, overgrown fields, non-intensive agricultural holdings and the like. Corn snakes are of moderate build and size and in nature they normally appear with a light orange background colouration with a series of darker orange-brown blotches down the back. However, there is a good degree of variation seen. Colour forms established under captive conditions are varied and often dramatic, including those with deeply enhanced reds, those lacking red and orange pigmentation and striped forms to mention but a few.
As hatchlings corn snakes are about 12-15cm long, and will reach 120-180 cm as adults. Under optimal conditions corn snakes can reach sexual maturity by the age of 18-24 months or so, although 30-36 months is more commonplace. Longevity under captive conditions is variable but can often exceed 12-14 years with a number of records well past the 20 years.
Corn snakes are docile, easy to handle and rarely bite. Handling is best avoided for a couple of days following feeding in order to minimise the risks of regurgitation. Likewise, it is best to restrict handling of newly acquired specimens, especially young animals, until they have had one or two weeks to settle into their new home. Care should always be given to support the body of the snake whilst being handled. When choosing a corn snake, look for an animal that appears alert with smooth skin, no retention of unshed skin and a firm and full feel to the body. The eyes, nostrils and mouth should be free of discharge

Housing In their wild state corn snakes are solitary animals and it is generally best to keep them separately in captivity. Ordinarily, corn snakes should only be kept together for the purpose of mating.

Although corn snakes are not hyperactive the minimum vivarium size should ideally not be less than two-thirds the length of the snake. Hatchlings have a tendency to be stressed in larger enclosures and may not feed if kept in large vivariums. Hatchlings are best kept in small plastic tanks until they are established and feeding well, then increasing the enclosure size as the animal grows

Substrate A variety of substrates can be used when housing corn snakes. Most of those marketed for reptiles are suitable choices provided they do not build-up undue humidity within the enclosure. Aspen bedding, Lignocel® or Beech chips are all popular choices as are the various reptile carpets on the market. Spot cleaning should be undertaken daily with the removal of any stools and the entire vivarium thoroughly cleaned every 3-4 weeks.

Rocks, branches or artificial plants in the vivarium will be of significant benefit in increasing the surface area over which the animals can move and also make the environment more interesting. At least one hide box is absolutely essential and can be in the form of a hollow section of cork bark, artificial hide, rocks, etc. suitable for the size of the animal.
Although humidity should generally be kept relatively low, when the animal is preparing to shed it's skin it will require a humid hide area. This can be created by spraying lightly under a hide or by providing a box of moistened moss into which the snake can climb. It is important that the accommodation used allows for good ventilation

Heating & lighting Corn snakes require the ability to thermo-regulate and therefore require a thermal gradient in their vivarium. At the cool end of the enclosure a temperature between 22-24C is appropriate whilst at the hot end it should be at or around 30C allowing the animal to choose it's optimal temperature through the day. Temperatures at night can drop a few degrees with no ill effects and, indeed, is in all likelihood beneficial to the snake. The hot end of the vivarium is best heated by a heat mat, ceramic heater or spot bulb controlled with a good quality thermostat. Ceramic heaters or spot bulbs must always be guarded with a suitable guard to prevent burning. If a heat mat is used then it is essential that it is a maximum of 1/3 of the floor area of the tank and that the thermostat probe is positioned on the heat mat such that it is measuring the surface temperature. The heat mat must not be thermally blocked by using a layer of substrate that is too thick.

A winter cool down period for a period of 8-10 weeks is not essential for the health of corn snakes in captivity but can be undertaken and usually is in order to increase the possibility for successful reproduction.
It is a good idea to use a couple of thermometers, one at each end of the vivarium to monitor the hot and cool areas of the enclosure to ensure that there is sufficient difference to allow the snake to thermo regulate

Supplemental lighting is not required for corn snakes but will do no harm, provided good hideaways are provided. However, it is important for the snake to be able to maintain a day-night rhythm and lights should be switched off at night.
There is now some evidence to suggest that corn snakes may benefit from low level UVB exposure

Food & water Appropriately sized rodents are the mainstay of the captive corn snake's diet. Hatchlings will take pinkie mice once every 4-6 days whilst adults will take full-sized mice, young rats, etc. every 7-14 days. All food offered should be thoroughly thawed from frozen. Ideally food should be offered from tongs and given outside the enclosure. It is better to offer slightly smaller prey size than unduly large as this will increase the risk of regurgitation. Food should not be offered during the skin shedding cycle. A water bowl should be provided and changed regularly especially if the corn snake defecates in it. The bowl should be heavy enough to minimise the possibility of spillage

Breeding In order to maximise the chances of reproduction, corn snakes are cooled down for a period of 8-10 weeks (a process known as brumation) during the winter. During this period temperatures are reduced to around 10-15oC and lighting levels, if any, are kept subdued and the day period short. The snake should not be fed during this period. The cool down temperatures should be achieved gradually over a period of 10-14 days and the breaking of the cool down period also should occur over a similar length of time.

Upon the temperatures again being raised to 'normal' levels and the animals having been fed well for a few weeks they can be introduced to each other for mating - normally in March or early April. They remain with each other for a few weeks. Assuming that copulation has been successful the female will start to develop eggs inside her and during this period it is important to keep her very well fed. As the eggs mature though she will start to refuse food. Egg laying will follow approximately 40 days from successful copulation and will then hatch around 60 days later.
A nesting box - usually some form of box filled with vermiculite and/or moss - should be provided to the mated female in which she can lay her clutch of 10-20 eggs. These should then be removed and placed in a container with moistened vermiculite within an incubator at temperatures around 27-29C.
Upon hatching the youngsters will usually remain in the broken egg for one or two days whilst they absorb the nutrients from the yolk remaining in the egg. Upon leaving the egg fully they should be boxed separately in small enclosures. Once they have undertaken their first moult, they can be offered a pinkie mouse. Once they have eaten for the first time they are almost always reliable and voracious feeders and grow rapidly

Health Cared for correctly, corn snakes do not suffer from many serious illnesses. Problems that you may see are:

Impaction - If the corn snake ingests too much foreign material whilst consuming its food. This can be avoided by not feeding the animal in it's home enclosure, and is not going to be a problem in any case if using reptile carpet.
Respiratory Infections - These normally arise when high levels of humidity occur, or when enclosure is not regularly cleaned. The corn snake will display discharge from its nostrils and/or mouth and wheezing noises may well be heard. Putting right the cause is obviously essential but the snake will require veterinary attention.
Mites - Occasionally these ectoparasites can build-up into an infestation on a captive snake, resulting in the snake being lethargic and often losing it's appetite. The snake and/or enclosure should be treated with a good reptile mite treatment according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Incomplete skin sloughing - Pieces of old skin are retained after shedding, particularly the scales over the eyes. This is not usually a problem since corn snakes will often bathe in their water bowl prior to skin shedding but slight spraying during shedding will otherwise help ensure a full and proper skin shed as would temporary provision of a box of moistened moss. If skin does become stuck then placing the snake in a damp pillowcase with damp moss overnight in a warm place will usually result in any pieces of stuck skin coming away. If this does not work then the snake should receive veterinary attention.
In all cases of ill health a qualified vet should be consulted

Russell McRae